A Hard-Boiled (Egg) Story

In my neighborhood, eggs seem to grow on trees! Giant, colorful eggs sprout once a year, in springtime, at just one house on the block. I’ve always wondered what the homeowners DO with all those eggs? And just how tall IS that Easter Bunny, to be able to attach the eggs to such a big tree? And, which DID come first, the tree – or the eggs?

Without delving deeper into this little piece of fiction, or into the infamous and unanswerable chicken-or-egg-first question, let’s just enjoy eggs for what they are and focus for a moment on this week’s favorite: the hard-boiled Easter egg. Whether delivered by the Easter bunny in baskets or buckets or on trees, these tasty hard-cooked, versatile eggs can be eaten from breakfast to dinner and all times in between.

Many different variations of cooking method have been promoted, from time to time. The most-common method simply involves placing eggs into a saucepan wide enough to allow them to sit in one layer without crowding, deep enough to allow one inch of water to cover the top of the eggs and a couple of inches more space to allow for boiling froth.

Over high heat, bring the eggs and water just to a full boil. Then, remove the pan from the heat immediately and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Let the eggs stand in the pan, covered for 15 minutes. Then, pour off the hot water and run cold water over the eggs to stop them from cooking and to make peeling easier.

Shelling hard-cooked eggs is also made easier by using eggs that are at least several days old, gently tapping the entire surface of the shell against a flat surface and peeling from the large end. Some people like to peel eggs under running water to further assist in the shell-removal process.

The following delicious recipe using hard-boiled eggs comes from the LIDIA’S FAMILY TABLE cookbook (Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, New York, 2004), by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich with David Nussbaum. Techniques and recipes from this book are also featured in Ms. Bastianich’s syndicated PBS-TV series.

Both the TV show and the cookbook allow aspiring Italian cooks to spend some virtual time in Lidia’s kitchen and learn the techniques that she uses – the ideas and methods that were passed to her through her family and that she has developed for use in her highly-popular restaurants in New York City, Pittsburgh and Kansas City.

Starting from the basics, Ms. Bastianich describes beloved Italian everyday favorites and then progresses to tried-and-true variations, improvisations and cook-to-cook tips – just as she would if standing next to a cooking enthusiast in her own kitchen. As she so often says on her TV show, she doesn’t want people to be a slave to the recipes but just to get ideas to use in their own cooking. A devoted author and nationwide lecturer, she also provides lots of information and ideas at her website: http://www.lidiasitaly.com/.

So, let’s gather up those hard-cooked Easter eggs and get started!

CAULIFLOWER AND EGG SALAD
(Serves 6 or more)

1 large head cauliflower (1-1/2 to 2 pounds)
½ teaspoon or more salt
3 hard-boiled eggs
3 tablespoons or more white wine vinegar
¼ cup or more extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Tear off all the outer leaves attached to the base of the cauliflower; reserve any tender green leaves. Cut out the bottom core, and snap or slice off all the big florets from the inner stem. Cut the florets into 1-inch chunks or thick slices (don’t break them up into tiny florets).

Bring 3 or 4 quarts of water in a large pot to the boil, drop in the florets and reserved leaves, and cook, uncovered, at a steady boil for 5 minutes, or until cooked through but not soft. Lift out the cauliflower, spread the pieces out in a colander, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cool to room temperature.

Before serving, slice the eggs in wedges, and cut the wedges into 2 or 3 pieces each. In the bottom of a large mixing bowl, whisk together the vinegar, oil, another ¼ teaspoon salt, and grinds of pepper. Put all the cauliflower in the bowl, and tumble to dress all the pieces. Scatter the egg pieces over the top, and fold them in. Taste, and adjust the seasonings.

Arrange the salad on a serving platter, or portion on salad plates.

*Copyright Note*: Lidia Bastianich specifically authorized this recipe reprint, by the Ingredient Sleuth, in this posting.

The additional notes to the recipe indicate that this dish is good as a first course, a side dish or a partner with broccoli for a supper dish. As Lidia says, “At my grandma’s house, we used to have this kind of salad many a time, with a slice of homemade bread and some good cheese, for supper.”

The LIDIA'S FAMILY TABLE cookbook is filled with photos -- of beautiful food and of four generations of Lidia’s family-- showing the ways in which food serves as an integral part of the family's routine, creating an ongoing interaction among all generations. For the Ingredient Sleuth, those photos and the explanations never fail to bring a smile. Somehow, Ms. Bastianich has managed to capture, in book format, those person-to-person encounters that magnify all good cooking and good food.

As the Easter baskets are gathered and the pyramid of colorful eggs is placed lovingly in that bowl in the refrigerator, I hope that today’s recipe comes in handy. Enhanced by the addition of just a few additional ingredients, those eggs of the hard-boiled variety will be ready to be gobbled up by eager salad eaters in no time!

Happy Easter, buon appetito -- and as Lidia says at the close of every TV show, "tutti a tavola a mangiare!" (All to the table to eat!)

Can't Put Fennel in a Funnel ...

Fennel bulb, fronds trimmed


Q: "Fennel. Is that what they make fennel cakes out of?"
A: "Those aren't fennel cakes. They're called funnel cakes!"

Q: "Fennel. Are those the decorative tips at the ends of curtain rods?"
A: "Those aren't fennels. They're called finials!"

Q: "Well then, what the dickens IS fennel?"
A: "Thought you'd never ASK!"

Fennel is a member of the parsley family. It is sometimes referred to as sweet fennel, Florence fennel or finocchio. Its flavor is mildly reminiscent of licorice or anise -- but smoother, I think. It is used widely in the cooking of Provence and Italy and is available in great abundance throughout the fall and winter. Most major supermarkets are now part of the "fennel scene."

Fennel bulbs should be firm, the stalks straight and firm and the feathery fronds green and fresh. Often, the stalks will already have been removed at the grocery. In that case, be sure that the cut ends are fresh looking, not dry and white. Brown spots or signs of splitting are definitely to be avoided!

The stalks may be used in soups and stews -- the frondlike leaves are useful as an herb. But, it is the bulb that is the main fennel event. It is great cut into wedges, doused with the ever-popular extra-virgin olive oil, sprinkled with herbs, salt and pepper, and roasted.

Braising works well too -- slices or wedges are placed in a saucepan with just enough boiling liquid to barely cover. Broths, tomato sauce or wine work great! If you prefer firmer veggies, sautee rather than braise.

Raw, in salads, or steamed, fennel maintains all its healthful attributes to the max! It is high in vitamin C, low in calories and contains several grams of fiber per cup of raw slices.

All in all -- use it any way you like. Just can't put it through a funnel to make cakes out of it! (Having said that -- I wonder what would happen if one were to grate or grind it and make fritters with it. I may just have to try that!)

Casserole Trinity

Casserole Construction

You really have to admit it – cooks and food-people are a very religious group! Don’t think so? Aren’t convinced? Well, let’s see, there must be some evidence (even if it IS anecdotal!) out there somewhere …

First of all, there’s the French. Now we all KNOW how into food THEY are! And how do they refer to their three national food products of pride (bread, cheese, wine)? The holy trinity of French gastronomy.

And then, there’s the soup scene. When cooks get out the stockpot and chef’s knife, what do they reach for to get things started and to set those juices flowing? Onions, celery and carrots. And what do they call them? The holy trinity of soup stock.

So, as the weather took a turn for the cool this week – bringing to mind thoughts of Fall and fireplaces and sweaters – what did the Ingredient Sleuth think of? Casseroles (that would be “baked dish” in Minnesotan -- at least that's what the humorous book How to Talk Minnesotan says!), hot and steamy from the oven.

And, being every bit as religious as the French and the soup chefs, what do "cookers of casseroles" select from the larder? Protein, grains and vegetables -- the holy trinity of casserole construction! With those dependable (P-G-V) items on hand, a good casserole is always just around the corner!

After last week’s musings on flatbreads, the Ingredient Sleuth's casserole of choice turned out to be a little number that the I dreamt up a few years ago. In this case, the beans and cheese are the protein, the corn (cream style and tortillas) is the grain and the tomatoes, zucchini, onions and peppers are the vegetable. Always easy and always tasty, this layered "baked dish" sends warm aromas of comfort wafting through the house in no time.

INGREDIENT SLEUTH’S TORTILLA CASSEROLE

Sauce:
½ large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise, finely sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup red or green bell pepper, slivered into1-inch lengths
15-ounce can red beans, drained
15-ounce can diced tomatoes, with juices
15-ounce can cream-style corn
½ teaspoon dried, red chile pepper flakes
½ to 1 teaspoon paprika or chili powder
Salt and pepper to taste

Structure:
4 corn tortillas (8-inch size)
1 cup shredded cheddar or pepper jack cheese



1. Saute the onions in the oil over medium heat, until golden, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the remainder of the “sauce” ingredients in the order listed above.
3. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes, to blend flavors and achieve thickness of lasagna sauce. Taste and adjust seasonings.
4. Layer the sauce in an oiled, 8-inch-round casserole dish with the tortillas and cheese, starting and ending with sauce. Cover with ovenproof lid or aluminum foil.
5. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes.
6. Garnish with your favorite toppings: parsley, onions, chopped tomatoes, sour cream, avocado, if desired.

(4 servings)

Have you noticed how TV chefs are using the "build the dish" terminology more and more? Maybe it's about time to do some serious casserole construction at YOUR house as well! We all need some comfort food every now and then. Time to get some culinary religion and reach for that trinity -- and casserole dish -- once again!

Bon appetit!

Alhambra's Generalife Garden Ponds

The Soup of Seville -- via Sheboygan!

The Generalife Gardens at the Alhambra Palace near Granada, Spain are a splendid sight. Verdant, lush vegetation covers hillsides and terraced, level areas. In the geometric, structured gardens, archways are covered with roses of many colors. Their exotic scents blend and waft through the air.

Birds flutter overhead, attracted to the beauty, twittering to each other in a flurry of activity. Water, including river and streams and fountains, babbles everywhere. Tourists from around the world smile and murmur in delight.

The Moorish emirs of Granada wanted to recreate the Garden of Eden at this location. They diverted a river to provide water and set in place a garden of visual, olfactory and culinary delights. Generations of visitors have been appreciative of their efforts.

In this corner of Spain, today’s Andalusians continue to recreate the Garden of Eden – in a soup bowl! Gazpacho is Andalusia’s best-known dish and probably originated in a different format (no tomatoes or peppers, which came to Spain after Columbus “sailed the ocean blue” to the “New World”) during the time when Spain was part of the Islamic world in the Middle Ages.

Today, the most-familiar versions of gazpacho are probably those from Seville and Cordoba. However, most cities and towns throughout southern Spain’s Andalusian region have their own, slightly-different versions. The common, distinctive ingredient among all the versions was, and is, bread. Originally, like so many wonderful dishes, gazpacho was peasant food. It was eaten by workers in the fields: vineyards, olive plantations, citrus groves, wheat fields and cork (tree) farms. It was field-travel friendly – and still is today!

Gazpacho was popularized outside of the Andalusian region in the 19th century and finally worked its way to popularity in northern Spain around 1930. It became quite fashionable there and continued its wanderings worldwide as the 20th century progressed. How many of us, after visiting Andalusia, return home with visions of hillsides in our hearts and yearnings for gazpacho in our taste buds? The Ingredient Sleuth, for one.

The following “gazpacho interlude” comes from the wonderful, new book BIRO: EUROPEAN-INSPIRED CUISINE by Marcel Biro and Shannon Kring Biro (Gibbs Smith, Publisher, 2005):

"Marcel Biró’s Gazpacho

Originally a laborers’ dish, Gazpacho was the standard fare of Andalusian muleteers who carried it in earthen pots on their travels. Today the soup contains vegetables and differs from city to city within Andalusia—each version claiming to be the original. Arguably, the first recipe came from Córdoba and consisted of bread, garlic, olive oil, and water. Today Córdoban Gazpacho is thickened with cream and cornmeal. In Jerez it is garnished with raw onion rings, and in Malaga it is made with veal bouillon and sometimes garnished with grapes and almonds. In Cadiz Gazpacho is served hot in the winter, and in Segovia it is flavored with cumin, basil, and aïoli.
This recipe is inspired by that of Seville, a city that, of course, also lays claim as home of Gazpacho.

Serves 6

1 pound vine ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
½ cucumber, peeled and chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 cup breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 cups tomato juice
½ teaspoon dried leaf marjoram
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Purée all ingredients in a food processor or blender. You may need to process it in two batches. Blend until the soup is the consistency you favor. Some people prefer chunks, others a completely smooth soup. I prefer my Gazpacho somewhere in between: with some bite and the consistency of heavy cream.
2. Pour the soup into a large stainless bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. When the soup is well chilled, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Presentation
Gazpacho is traditionally served with a selection of garnishes including chopped hard-boiled eggs, chopped cucumber, chopped onion, chopped green and black olives, and diced green bell pepper. This soup is therefore best served family style, and I prefer to use earthenware dishes, as the recipe was originally prepared in clay bowls.

Quick Tip: Other uses for Gazpacho
I’ve used Gazpacho leftovers as a pizza sauce, a warm pasta sauce, a sauce for a goat cheese tarte flambée, a cold and warm garnish, and even as a cocktail sauce by adding a bit of horseradish. Be inventive with this versatile soup and know that the longer you keep it, the more complex and intense the flavor will become."

*Copyright Note*: Marcel and Shannon Biro specifically authorized this excerpt and recipe reprint, by the Ingredient Sleuth, in this posting.

A huge part of the pleasure of any travel experience is the representative food of the visited location. This book steps right up and puts the know-how to recreate those dishes into the reader’s hands.

For me, this gazpacho is filled with my memories of Andalusia. As I taste the soup's bright, fresh and snappy flavor, I am transported to Alhambran gardens and striking hillsides and flamenco performances with bright, fresh and snappy music – sometimes I even jump up and do a little fancy footwork of my own in celebration!

The book’s recipes are representative of the favorite regions in which Marcel Biro has worked: southern Germany, Alsace, Tuscany and Andalusia. The recipes are meant to take you to – or back to – those wonderful destinations as you cook up the wonderful dishes at home.

As one of the youngest chefs in European history to achieve the title Master Chef de Cuisine, he is acclaimed for winning several coveted European awards, for his accomplishments in Michelin-starred restaurants, and for his dedication to demystifying classic cuisine.

As a European Certified Chef Instructor, Biro has fed those with a hunger for professional culinary knowledge throughout France, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Spain, Hungary, Italy and the United States. He has worked at internationally acclaimed restaurants and was personal chef to German Chancellor Helmut Kohl.

Biro is host of the new national PBS (Public Broadcasting System) reality cooking series “The Kitchens of Biro.” He is also chef/owner of Biro Restaurant and Wine Bar and of O – a Biro Restaurant, both in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. In addition, the Biros (Marcel and Shannon) offer a bonanza of culinary events and activities (see http://www.kitchensofbiro.com/) for culinary enthusiasts. Trips to Europe, cooking classes, entrepreneurial consultation and more are available.

Mr. Biro came to appreciate the value – the precious nature – of good ingredients at a young age, in East Germany. He has based his career on bringing wonderful, healthful ingredients to new heights in dishes that will be available to all. What really warms the heart of the Ingredient Sleuth is the following sentence from the book’s introduction (reprinted with permission) as Biro says:

“Whether you prepare the recipes as outlined or put your own unique spin on them – which I encourage – I hope that you take a moment to really touch the ingredients, to inhale their wondrous scent, and to appreciate their beauty. In my life and career, I have come to fully comprehend the value of freedom and the great privilege I have to work with food. For me, it is an honor never to be taken for granted.”

So THAT'S Italian! And lemon-y!

Claro's Italian Market










"When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie
That's amore!
When the world seems to shine like you've had too much wine
That's amore!
Bells will ring ting-a-ling-a-ling, ting-a-ling-a-ling
And you'll sing "Vita Bella"
Hearts will play tippy-tippy-tay, tippy-tippy-tay
Like a gay tarantella.

When the stars make you drool just like pasta fagiole
That's amore!
When you dance down the street with a cloud at your feet
You're in love!
When you walk in a dream but you know you're not dreaming signore
Scuzza me, but you see, back in old Napoli
That's amore!"

("That's Amore" Songwriter: Harry Warren, Lyricist: Jack Brooks)

Every time that I walk into my favorite Italian market, the lyrics of the popular song standard "That's Amore" whisk quickly from their storage area in my brain as if some invisible gremlin has hit the "play" button! Instantly, the catchy tune embeds itself into my consciousness and sticks as tightly to my awareness as a misguided piece of mailing tape adheres to the kitchen table.

Leave it to a song about Italy to mix in some tasty foods with its lyrics about love! Not surprisingly, the song was written by a couple of Americans! It just stands to reason: Americans have been falling in love with Italy, and with Italian food, for a long, long time!

The venue for my Italian ingredient sleuthing is Claro's Italian Market. There are six stores in southern California, all of which are brimming with a dazzling assortment of edible treats. Founded in 1948, Claro's definitely has it RIGHT! A stroll through the aisles is filled with fun. Why not grab a shopping cart and come with me for a few minutes?

Certainly, olive oils and balsamic vinegars and pastas are stacked there in abundance. Tomatoes in aluminum cans are the real thing -- the San Marzano type from Italy that even prize-winning chefs recommend as an equivalent substitution for the fresh, red-ripe tomatoes of late summer. Borlotti beans, anchovies, tomato paste in tubes and oh, so much more, beckon from the brimming shelves. Oh, it is so lovely to linger among the ingredients!

Rounding the corner from the staple foods section, the Ingredient Sleuth slows her already snail-like pace even further. There it is -- the deli case! Olives of many descriptions, marinated artichokes and peppers and other-things-vegetable in vinegars, sausages and cheeses and prepared dishes. A veritable antipasto wonderland in the making! Deli personnel offer samples to taste, slice selections to just the thickness you desire, package just the right amount. Personal service, to the nth degree.

Next stop on the circuit is the display of wines. Labels on bottles call out (with melodic Italian voices of course) the names of Italian towns and regions that kindle memories of previous Italy trips or trigger ideas for itineraries in-the-making. Reds and whites and blush wines are there -- and expertise to answer questions will appear at your elbow like magic!

As I near the displays of housewares, imported ceramics and Italian cookbooks, I yield once again to the impulse to just "have a look." So many things to consider. How can there be SO many sizes of espresso pots? Would I wear a "Kiss me, I'm Italian" T-shirt if I bought one? Do I have room in my cupboard for just one more serving dish? The persistent song in my head always seems louder, somehow, when it is reflected from the colorful, shiny platters!

Nearing the finish line now, but no let-up in appeal is imminent. What a stroke of brilliance -- the baked goods and pastry counter shares space with the cash registers! Shoppers' eyes (including mine) dart back-and-forth, side-to-side, as their corresponding breathing rates increase ever so slightly. So many treats, so much to be considered! Crusty organic rolls, whole-grain breads with seeded tops, cookies, cheese-filled cannolli and myriads more call out to be chosen. It's somewhat similar to that taunting candy bar display at the conventional supermarket, right there, next to the checkout -- only much, much more compelling. Where else would one find such a selection? Where else would the items be so delicious?

If, like me, you are sent into "ingredient longing" just by this run-through of a microcosm of Claro's Italian specialties, perhaps it is time to stop by and see for yourself. What? Not in southern California? Not even headed here for a visit sometime soon? Don't feel like going out into the hot weather to shop? Well, your fingers can then just walk on over to www.claros.com and investigate the online shopping options that are available. Dozens and dozens of items are there waiting -- over twenty varieties of imported olive oil alone! (Of course, your geography may have well-stocked Italian markets as well, for in-store browsing pleasure, and perhaps with online ordering of their own. Isn't it a great small world these days?)

The following recipe is brought to you with the specific permission of Claro's Italian Markets. Those of you who saw the movie "Under the Tuscan Sun" may remember the lovely, seaside lunch at which a refreshing, lemon-y Italian liqueur was served. Although that liqueur, limoncello, can be purchased already-prepared in liquor stores (Villa Massa is a popular brand name), what fun, how fresh and tasty, and how economical it is to mix up a batch for yourself. Thanks to Claro's, we can do just that!

CLARO'S HOMEMADE LIMONCELLO LIQUORE

Lemon zest (peel without any white) from 2 pounds of lemons
3 cups granulated sugar
4 cups 100-proof vodka
3 cups water

Soak the lemon peels in the vodka for 1 week in a large bowl stored at room temperature. Mix the water and sugar together in a saucepan and heat over medium heat until all of the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool. Add the vodka mixture and stir. Strain into storage bottles and cork bottles. Chill limoncello for one month, then enjoy!

So, as the dog days of summer continue, why not stir up a batch of this lovely and cool refreshment. Then, when it has finished "aging" (maybe a little earlier, if you are like me), find a shady spot (or an air-conditioned one), open up a book with an Italian setting (maybe even Frances Mayes' book, UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN, which is even better and quite different than the movie) and sing a few rousing choruses of "That's Amore"!

So THAT'S Italian! Salute! (And cheers!)

Dried Lavender Flowers 

Lavender: A Magic Carpet of Scent & Flavor

The tiny, red ladybug's wings were a blur! There she (or he!) was, in the middle of an immense field of heavenly bliss. As far as a ladybug's eyes -- even as far as a giant's eyes -- could see, the sun reflected lushly from the deep, thick, purple carpet. The fragrance filled the air as each movement of the ladybug's delicate wings created invisible air currents to heighten the aroma. Purple visions of olfactory delight! Lavender fields of summer.

Purple, dark or light, is a color that is associated with power, with riches, with life’s good things. Little wonder then that lavender, as an aromatic herb plant, is so popular. With that gorgeous color going for it, lavender was bound to attract human attention, right from the start! One would just naturally be drawn to its beautiful color – like a ladybug to color or a hummingbird to nectar. Once focused on the plant, one would just as naturally stay right there with it, in aromatic heaven.

A member of the mint family, lavender is a perennial that returns to our gardens, year after year, to delight us. English lavender (Lavandula augustifolia) is probably the variety that we see most often. The two most-common cultivars – should you be inclined to head straight out to your local nursery, now that planting season is here – are Hidcote (a deep violet color) and Munstead (a pale “lavender” color!). Additional English lavender cultivar varieties include Twickle Purple (taller), Gary Lady (silver foliage) and Jean Davis (pink blossoms).

A different lavender variety, more-typically grown for commercial oil production purposes, is called lavandin. French lavender and Spanish lavender are not as sweet, having instead a somewhat medicinal fragrance, which is not as appropriate for cooking.

English lavenders are the best bet for culinary uses. That’s right, I said “culinary uses and cooking!” Most of us have probably been eating lavender for a long time without knowing it. It is routinely used as one of the herbs in the popular Herbs of Provence seasoning blend. Today, more and more recipes feature lavender as an ingredient in its own right!

Flowers and buds, leaves and stems, all have the characteristic aroma and flavor of lavender. For culinary use, the flowers and buds, fresh and dried, are best. Surprisingly, and unlike many other herbs, the fresh flowers are stronger than the dried. Fresh lavender’s taste is fruitier and sweeter; dried lavender has a more-pronounced herbal character, somewhat reminiscent of thyme or marjoram. So, if you are a gardener who is now casting a covetous eye on those plants in your back yard – or on those in the side yard of your neighbor – remember that you won’t need much fresh lavender to provide LOTS of flavor! Especially when it is fresh!

Specialty markets and some regular supermarkets have begun to carry dried lavender in their herbs-and-spices sections. Some, like my local Henry’s Marketplace (www.wildoats.com), offer dried lavender blossoms in bulk, which is a particularly-economical way to buy it. Lavender is astonishingly lightweight. Buy an ounce of lavender blossoms and you will be well on your way to filling up a spice bottle! (If you can find a lavender-in-bulk source, it is also not a bad place to load up on lavender blossoms for non-edible uses, by the way.)

If your local grocery sources come up short in your lavender search, it is always possible to let your fingers do the walking and head on over to some excellent Internet-based sources such as Penzeys or The Spice House (http://www.penzeys.com/ or http://www.thespicehouse.com) for herbs and spices of many varieties. When ordering, it is good to remind oneself about lavender’s light weight – a little goes a long way!

The same reminder is appropriate when you tie on your apron and get down to cooking. Lavender requires a light touch, just as vanilla does. Starting with a small amount is always a good idea, especially if one is new to the use of lavender in a culinary setting. Think “like vanilla” in regard to amounts and you will be off to an auspicious start!

In savory dishes, the underlying camphor-y, resin-y character of lavender seems to come from the same flavor palette as rosemary, thyme and savory, pairing well with them. As a result, lavender also works well with robust foods: chicken, lamb, game birds, pork, salmon, potatoes. I love to sprinkle a whisper-light dusting of lavender buds on roasted or steamed potatoes-in-jackets – or to just toss a pinch of lavender buds into the cooking water when boiling potatoes. In both cases, a little flavor “hello” results with virtually no muss or fuss.

In sweet dishes, lavender is a natural. It pairs especially well with berries, cherries, plums, walnuts, almonds, pistachios and ginger. (Imagine, if you will, lavender-scented gingerbread --something I have been meaning to attempt!). In baked goods, earthy, dried lavender combines beautifully with sugar’s sweetness. Pound cake and buttery shortbread, in particular, are subtle enough to allow the lavender flavor to really shine through.

The following recipe comes from THE FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO PARIS, 4th Edition, by Patricia Wells, Workman Publishing, New York:


TEA FOLLIES’ LAVENDER SHORTBREAD COOKIES
(Sables a la Lavande Tea Follies)

1-3/4 cups (250 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup (100 g) sugar
8 tablespoons (4 ounces; 120 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 egg
1 tablespoon dried lavender flowers or fresh rosemary leaves
Pinch of salt

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Line two baking sheets with cooking parchment.

2. In a large bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Then, using a fork, slowly incorporate the butter, egg, lavender, and salt, working the mixture into a soft dough. Transfer it to a floured work surface and knead into a ball. Roll the cookie dough to a ¼-inch (7-mm) thickness; then cut it into about thirty-six ½-inch (6-cm) cookies.

3. Transfer the rounds to the prepared baking sheets, place the baking sheets in the oven, and bake until evenly brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the cookies to a baking rack to cool.

Yield: About 36 cookies

*Copyright Note*: Patricia Wells specifically authorized this recipe reprint, by the Ingredient Sleuth, in this posting.

These cookies are smoothly-delicious, with the refreshingly-bright note of dried lavender flowers. They are served at the Tea Follies tea salon in Paris’ 9th arrondissement and, like many French baked items, avoid being over-sugared. As a result, the true flavors of the non-sugar ingredients shine through. Delectable!

Patricia Wells is a notable author in today’s culinary universe and recently received the 2005 James Beard Award, Best International Cookbook, for THE PROVENCE COOKBOOK, Harper Collins Publishers, New York, 2004. That award goes very well, I am sure, with the numerous other awards that she has amassed to date, for her other delightful books!

Ms. Wells is the only foreigner to have served as food critic for the French weekly news magazine L’EXPRESS and is currently restaurant critic for THE INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE. Originally from Wisconsin, she divides her time between two home locations, Paris and Provence, France, both of which also serve as teaching locations for her popular multi-day cooking courses. Her website is filled with up-to-date information about her books and cooking courses and also includes a comprehensive archive of her IHT reviews of restaurants worldwide(http://www.PatriciaWells.com).

Ms. Wells’ outstanding guide to the culinary scene in Paris (from which the lavender cookies recipe comes), is a treasure trove of ideas and information for the food-oriented visitor. Not only for those of the cooking persuasion, though, the guidebook features restaurants, cafes, bistros, pastry shops, bakeries, tea salons, wine bars, cheese shops, prepared-foods shops, chocolate shops, kitchenware shops, recipes and enough photographs to satisfy even armchair travelers.

Descriptions in all categories focus on real content, not just the typical, basic data of general travel guidebooks. Narrative descriptions fill in the details that provide the context and background that go into making each location uniquely itself – and uniquely interesting to the visitor, as a result.

Perhaps, like me, you will read a bit as you eat some of the freshly-baked lavender cookies. Silently store away plans for that next visit to Paris -- or reminisce about the last one. Daydream briefly about tasty dishes at street-side café tables and brilliant purple lavender in Provencal gardens. Idyllic? Certainly! And snug as a bug in a lavender rug!

Bon appetit!

Canned Coconut Milk 

The Coconut Connection

Hammer, chisel, butcher’s knife, nut pick, empty jelly jar … all the required instruments were lined up on the kitchen counter, at eye level, to the wide-eyed amazement of an eight-year-old. No, we weren’t setting up for a scary, medieval-torture rite. We had just come home from the grocery store with an exotic purchase – a coconut!

We were about to begin the dissection. All that was missing was a surgical mask! Of course, at the age of eight, I was well aware of the tasty delights of coconut. I had watched Mom cut open a plastic bag of starkly-white coconut shreds many times, sometimes reaching in for small handfuls myself and carefully spreading them on the top of a freshly-frosted, homemade cake that she had whipped up earlier in the day.

But a whole, round, brown, hairy coconut – looking as if it had come straight from the tropics, or at least from the set of "Gilligan’s Island" – held visions of exotic adventure. I could almost see the monkeys that had brushed the sides of this coconut with agile little hands, as they played in swaying coconut-palm trees. The coconut itself, in fact, looked like a monkey’s head to me. There they were, the eyes and the oval-shaped mouth – all that was needed was a bonnet or a cap to complete the picture! (The Portuguese had recognized the similarity long before me; "coco" is their word for monkey. The Italians took a somewhat-more-cynical view and used the word "cocho" which means bogeyman!)

First step in the “grand opening” of the coconut, the pointy end of the nut pick was tapped into one of the dark-colored eyespots, with the help of a few firm strokes of the hammer. Several more such strategic openings in both eyes of the coconut, to allow air to interchange, encouraged the sweet liquid inside to start flowing. Time for the jelly jar! The clear, thin liquid appeared in steady drips, collecting in the bottom. This was our treat, shared in little sips, before proceeding to the rest of the “operation.”

Usually, our heavy (and oldest) butcher’s knife – the one that was already past the normal use stage -- was sufficient to pierce the side of the coconut, again with the help of a hammer-tap or two. Sometimes, with particularly thickheaded coconuts, the 6-inch chisel (from the kitchen utensils drawer, not the garage workbench), had to assist. (I have since read that a hammer tap alone will open the shell but I still revert to former methods!)

Soon though, in either case and with several more hammer taps, the coconut was lying open, with its sweet, white interior beautifully displayed in two halves. Back to the trusty knife, to chip the coconut into smaller pieces and then to carefully peel it (all this, of course, being done by the competent knife handler, not the 8-year-old). Child-sized hands were at-the-ready, though, anxious to grasp glistening white discs of coconut and deliver them (after a quick rinse) straight to equally-white, childhood teeth. I could almost feel south seas trade winds wash over me as the soft, smooth flavor twirled in my mouth.

It took many years, and many mouthfuls of coconut, for me to learn that coconut milk was not the liquid that I remembered from the jelly jar (that is actually coconut juice, sometimes called coconut water). Rather, coconut milk is obtained by processing coconut meat to produce a rich, milk-like liquid. Of course, one can prepare fresh coconut milk oneself (see http://www.coconut-connections.com/ for instructions, for recipes using coconut and for lots of info concerning the nutritional properties of coconut).

I, on the other hand, am completely content to use the canned versions of coconut milk that I find in regular supermarkets’ foreign-foods sections, at international markets and online. Coconut milk is also available in powdered and freshly-refrigerated formats, though I don’t find these as frequently and usually opt for the soup-sized cans. My supply waits faithfully in my kitchen cabinet – no muss, no fuss, and no hammer required for its retrieval!

Coconut milk is widely used in both sweet and savory dishes, particularly in Asian, Indian and Caribbean cooking. It pairs well with chicken, fish and seafood. A friend developed the recipe that follows. Inspired by the tremendous variety of dishes prepared on the TV Food Network (and I hope a little by the musings of the Ingredient Sleuth), he approaches cooking with increasing creativity. Several months ago, he described a chicken dish that he had invented, detailing step by step how the dish had been developed as he selected on-hand ingredients from the refrigerator and pantry.

The combination of ingredients sounded wonderful to me as well – particularly given that the linking element, allowing all the components to blend compatibly, was coconut milk. I cooked up a batch of this chicken (then more batches, as the addictive flavor called to me over time) and savored the complexity and contrasts it provided. The smoothness of the coconut milk is an excellent offset to the tanginess of many of the other ingredients in the dish. In fact, it provides the perfect Coconut Connection, through which the other ingredients express themselves to the taste buds.

Here, courtesy of Doctor Doug (university scientific-researcher and patent attorney) is a dish that is easy to make and good-to-the-last-drop tasty! I don’t think Doug has patented (make that copyrighted) his recipe yet, but I asked for – and received – his permission to publish it here anyway!


CILANTRO-LIME CHICKEN

1 pound of chicken breast, boneless, skinless, cut into four pieces

Marinate refrigerated, for 30 minutes, in:

Juice of 2 limes
1 cup chopped, fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 cup Sherry wine
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
2 shakes Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
¼ teaspoon black pepper

Remove chicken from marinade and brown in oil in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat, about 3 minutes per side. Add remaining marinade mixture to pan.

Reduce heat to medium and cook, covered, for about 10 minutes (turning chicken once while cooking), until there is no pink remaining in the chicken. Loosen good, brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Then add:

1 apple (Granny Smith or other baking apple), peeled, cored & cut into ¼ inch wedges
1 red bell pepper, cut into ¼ inch strips
¾ cup (about ½ can) coconut milk

Continue to cook, uncovered, until sauce is slightly thickened and chicken is fork-tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Then add:

1 to 2 tablespoons brown sugar or honey, if desired, to preferred sweetness.
(4 servings)

Bon appetit!

Fish Counter, Outdoor Market, Rouen, France

A True Fish Story

So many fish, so little time! I am fortunate to live in an area that is ocean-close. Near many harbor areas, up and down the California coast, there are clusters of specialty shops. Within those clusters, there are often fantastic little fish markets. One need only walk a few steps, along the harbor-front sidewalks, to see the fishing boats unloading the precious day’s catch. You can’t get any closer to “whole food” than that! At the same time, as one of nature's little bonuses, you have the opportunity to get up-close-and-personal with a variety of ocean birds – they are always there, watching the fish being unloaded too!

Baked, sautéed, poached, fried, grilled … the preparation options for fish are myriad. I use them all, often as I can. There is one recipe, though, that maintains a special place in my heart. As so often happens in such cases, that preparation method is linked to memories of my youth.

Summertime visits to Door County, Wisconsin, whether a day or a week in length, were always a special event for me. Small cities, with names like Sister Bay, Egg Harbor and Fish Creek are replete with water views – some of Lake Michigan and some of Green Bay (the body of water, not the Packer's football stadium).

In fact, surrounded by water for virtually its entire perimeter, the Door County Peninsula has always been fish-friendly. A highly-touristed area, the county is filled with interesting gift shops, excellent restaurants, great golf courses and friendly people. And those friendly residents have a longstanding fish preparation method that has come to be emblematic of Door County – and a necessity for my visits there. Let's go there, for a short fish story --

Now, as then, as the sun moves lower into the afternoon sky, the summertime crowds begin to gather and the preparation for the evening’s meal event gets underway. In progress: the Door County Fish Boil. Huge iron cauldrons are suspended over an outdoor fire, then filled with water to the appropriate level. To peer into the giant cauldrons, one would have to be tall enough to ride the height-restricted rides at Disneyland!

As the fire is stoked, the water begins to boil. People in the watching crowd (many holding frosty glasses of beer in hand) begin to applaud as the stainless steel buckets of unpeeled, whole potatoes are carried to the awaiting cauldron and emptied with a flourish by the muscular cooks. The boiling proceeds for some time, as the steam rises to the skies.

The next round of applause greets the onions, peeled but left whole, about the size of the potatoes. They too leave their stainless steel containers as they join the potatoes in the boiling cauldron. And finally, after the potatoes and onions have continued their cooking for awhile longer – and perhaps the second round of beer has been delivered – the gleaming, white fillets of fish are added. The fish, of course, cooks very rapidly and soon thereafter it is time for the “big finish.”

Pounds of salt are brought to the cauldron with much pomp and circumstance, then lifted overhead by the attending cook. As the crowd becomes quiet – at least as quiet as possible, given the beers-in-hand – the salt is added to the mixture. Immediately, the salt works its magic. All of the froth that has been created by the boiling rises to the top of the cauldron and spills over the edges.

This salt-induced boil-over not only seasons the fish and vegetables. It also removes cooking residue from all the wonderful ingredients and spills water onto the fire which, hissing and sputtering, creates the final “splash” of drama that is the trademark of the event! You don’t have to be an ingredient sleuth to appreciate the theatrics! The crowd roars and then immediately heads to the rows of waiting tables. Finally, it’s time to eat!

A small army of servers is on hand to receive the dozens of plates that have been filled by the cooks. Steaming servings of well-drained potato, onion and fish (each with its own mini pitcher of hot, melted butter) are then whisked to the waiting diners. All of the accompaniments, waiting at the tables, are already well in-hand by the hungry eaters: coleslaw, various breads, sauces and condiments … all the trimmings. Soon, the boisterous sounds of happy diners fill the land and the slanting rays of days-end sun reflect all-too-soon from well-emptied plates.

Dessert follows, as naturally as the setting of the sun, and provides several choices, much emphasis being focused on fruit pies made from locally-grown cherries and apples. Dessert was always secondary to me, though. Perhaps my appetite was already satiated – because I always used every available drop of my melted butter? For me, the fish was the thing.

Once home, Door County visits well behind us, my mother decided that there was no need for us to go into fish-boil-withdrawal. She set about recreating a year-round method of imitating those tasty feasts. Certainly, the wood fire, giant cauldron and bubble-over conclusion were foregone. But, with a large stock pot and the carefully-timed addition of potatoes, then onions, then fish – and mom’s signature addition of celery stalks and leaves, at the same time as the onions, for added flavor – our mini fish boils were almost as eventful around our kitchen table as they had been in Door County. From time to time, we even had beer and applauded!

Today, my at-home fish boils have moved to the West Coast and are made with any firm, white-fleshed fish that looks good at the market. Whether fish from streams, bays, lakes or oceans come my way, there is always something compelling about them – as if they are calling to me with those little fish lips. I am even drawn to them at markets when I am traveling. Hence: today’s photo is from the outdoor market in Rouen, France. Maybe I wasn’t able to take those fish back to my hotel room and cook them – but I certainly did ooh and aah at them at the market. Bon appetit – and cheers!

Herbes de Provence 

Magical Herbal Helpers

As I spooned some Feta with Herbs (see previous post) into a small container for my workday lunch this morning, a light bulb came on in my sleepy brain! I didn’t tell you, last time, about my super timesaver to prepare the herbed feta. My secret ingredient … the piece de resistance!

What else could it be – Herbes de Provence (Herbs of Provence to we English speakers), of course! Rather than pull several containers of herbs from the cupboard, to make my own blend of herbs, I often simply open a trusty container of already-blended Provencal herbs. First “spoonfall” (is that the equivalent, utensil-wise, of footfall?), the multiplicity of pungent herbal scents confirms to me that whatever dish this tasty herbal combo is headed toward, it will be a delicious dish indeed.

I love to get the real thing, imported from France, of course, if possible. Amazingly, and a real money saver, I often find imported herbes de Provence at discount department stores, like Marshall’s or T.J. Maxx, in their specialty foods sections. (I always check the expiration date and I have never had any problem with freshness.) Imported blends are also availabile, of course, at many supermarkets and gourmet grocery stores.

Better yet, some of my herbes de Provence blends have been purchased in France, by the Ingredient Sleuth herself! That is the ultimate. In either case, each time I open the container, visions of France spring to mind. Shopping, eating, touring delights from every corner of that mecca of culinary delight. Can you hear me drooling?

The sunflower-design napkin in this photo, in fact, came from a charming little shopping area in Paris. Called Maison Meunier, it is part of a row of single-storey, stall-like buildings just east of the Conciergerie, St. Chapelle church and the Palace of Justice, along the Quai de la Corse on Ile de la Cite (Metro: Cite) -- and a pleasant stroll from Notre Dame Cathedral. Come to think of it, I also bought some tasty herbes de Provence at Maison Meunier last year. The friendly clerk smiled knowingly as I paid her for my purchases; surely, she could see the "visions of herbal plums" dancing in my head! And the cheshire-cat grin on my face ....

Should you decide to concoct your own batch of Provencal herbs, rather than buy a ready-to-go blend, here is a typical mixture:

Herbes de Provence

1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried rosemary
½ teaspoon dried lavender
½ teaspoon fennel seed
1 pinch of powdered bay leaf

I consider the blended Provencal herbs to be a little dash of magic and also use them to flavor roasted vegetables, to enliven a quick-supper omelette and as a speedy, ready-to-use rub for roasted chicken and pork. And now, as I leave you to indulge in that tasty lunch that I packed this morning, bon appetit from your friendly Ingredient Sleuth -- always searching for little touches of magic to send your way!

Feta With Herbs 

Marinated Mushrooms

Now then, on to the important part of our discussion -- the food!

I like this simple little method for preparing a tasty appetizer or side salad. Mushrooms, being the little flavor sponges that they are, become a wonderful vehicle through which to showcase the special character of a favorite olive oil. This marinade will change flavor, subtly, with the use of different olive oils. Spicy, fruity, nutty, rich -- all lend themselves well to this easy dish.

MARINATED MUSHROOMS

4 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 Tablespoon tomato catsup
3 Tablespoons fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried, crushed thyme)
1 clove garlic, crushed
Salt & pepper, to taste

Combine the above ingredients and pour over 1 pound of sliced, white mushrooms. Marinate for several hours, or as long as 24 hours, before serving to allow the flavors to blend and develop.

Serves 4 to 6.

I recently prepared this recipe with olive oil that I brought back with me from Andalucia, Spain. During that visit, I enjoyed several opportunities to taste local olive oils and visited a cooperative mill at which the olives from local growers are crushed for oil.

As is confirmed in so many blind taste tests by culinary organizations, the most-expensive oils are not necessarily the ones that hold the most appeal for individual tasters. The tour guide for the cooperative mill visit suggested that, for a good all-around olive oil to take home with us, similar to the ones that we had tasted, we simply do what the local home cooks do: go to the supermarket and look for extra virgin oils whose labels included the "producto de cooperativa" logo (a red, round logo with a tree design in the middle).

I followed the tour guide's advice and couldn't be happier with the product. It is golden in color and smoothly fruity in flavor. Unfortunately, the bottle is already half empty so my sleuthing for similar oils, available in the U.S., is in progress. Several "finds" have already appeared. But, we'll talk about that another day! For now, I will enjoy memories of Andalucia's hillsides of olive trees as I enjoy some more tasty, marinated mushrooms.